Fit for a sultan it may not be, but gudeg is certainly the signature of the royal city of Yogyakarta. The sweet jackfruit stew is boiled for hours in coconut milk and palm sugar, making the fruit so soft and tender it falls apart with little chewing.
Other spices are thrown into the mix but teak leaves give it a brown coloring. Like nasi uduk, it is served with rice, boiled egg, chicken and crispy, fried beef skin.
A beef stew from East Java that goes heavy on the keluak nut to give it a nutty flavor and a deep, black color.
The soup base also mingles with garlic, shallots, ginger, turmeric and red chili to make it nice and spicy.
The sight of fried catfish may surprise first-time diners since it looks almost the same as it does living -- eyeballs and all.
Served with rice and red and green sambal, this is simple street fare that fills the belly, which may be why it’s a standout across Jakarta.
Small diners, called warungs, now sell this traditional dish of braised chicken in coconut milk on a daily basis. Still, it remains a staple on tables around the end of Ramadan, when it’s served with packed rice cakes (
).
A little like a mild, slightly chalky curry with less prep time required, it’s filled with Indonesia’s signature spices -- garlic, ginger, cumin and coriander.
For this dish, bakmie is boiled in stock and topped with succulent slices of gravy-braised chicken.
Chives and sambal add extra flavor -- but if it’s done right little else is needed. Unlike most Indonesian cuisine, where the secret is in the sauce, the clue to a good mie ayam is the perfect al dente noodle.
Pork is uncommon in this Muslim majority nation, but we had to include roast suckling pig given the near hysteria it generates on the Hindu island of Bali.
The Balinese respect their food and lavish attention on its preparation. Before spit-roasting the pig they bath it in coconut water and rub it with chili, turmeric, garlic and ginger to ensure succulence.
Gulai is the common name for curry dishes, namely those from north Sumatra.
Indonesian curries have regional variations that depend on the types of meat and fish available -- though gulai almost always incorporates cinnamon. Opor and rendang can be considered gulais, but better to try out the rainbow of other options.
From blue-collar workers to government ministers, almost everyone starts their day with this rice gruel, a savory porridge served with soy sauce, fried shallots, shredded chicken, beans and crackers.
Outside Java variations can include corn, cassava and fish, while a sweeter version -- for those who prefer not to start their day with a blast of chili -- is made with mung beans.
Jakarta gridlock may be a blessing for the bakpao market.
Vendors often line busy roads during rush hour to offer these fluffy meat-filled buns to hungry passersby in need of a snack. Sweet offerings include chocolate and green bean, indicated by a colored dot on top.
When palates crave the opposite of Javanese sweetness, this pickled vegetable salad offers reprieve.
The secret is in the dressing, a thin peanut sauce swirled with palm sugar to offset the salty snap of preserved mustard leaf, carrot, cabbage and cucumber. The krupuk cracker crunch comes from a yellow disc made with egg noodles.
21. Cah kangkung
You will eat your river weed and you will like it. Seriously.
Otherwise known as water spinach, a common river weed, kangkung gets stir fried with sweet soybean sauce, huge slices of garlic, bird’s-eye chili and shrimp paste to take it from a poor man’s food to something with a kick.
Because it grows well in any kind of soil, it is a common ingredient in dishes throughout Asia. Here the cah indicates its Chinese origins.
Try it along with gurame at Santika, Jl. Bendungan Hilir across from the market.
22. Pepes ikan
You can get your tuna out of a can -- or you can eat it the right way.
Pepes signifies the steaming of food in banana leaves, which gives it an earthy flavor that works well with the rich Manadonese spices (woku) it’s coupled with.
When matched with tuna the result is a dense, fiery dish that holds its distinct flavors, but should be eaten gingerly.
Beautika (Jl. Hang Lekir No. 1; +62 (0)21 722 6683) does it best by dousing it in chili and placing pepper icons on the menu – the three-pepper maximum has serious attitude.
23. Pempek
Douse it in vinegar, chili and sugar sauce, and it'll get eaten.
According to lore, the name pempek refers to the old Chinese man who first produced these fish and tapioca cakes from Palembang in South Sumatra.
Now a Palembang specialty, pempek or empek-empek comes in a variety of shapes and sizes.
The most famed, kapal selam, literally submarine, contains a chicken egg and is rumored to be the most nutritious form of the spongy dough balls, which are sprinkled with shrimp powder and served with
cuka, a dark dipping sauce made from vinegar, chili and sugar.
Try Pempek Wak Ayah Lemak at Kebon Sirih, Palembang.
24. Perkadel
Never judge a perkadel by its cover.
So simple it’s often overlooked, Perkadel’s unassuming appearance belies its flavorful punch.
A distant relative of Dutch minced-meat frikandel, these croquettes are either potato based and filled with beef or made from corn (perkadel jagung).
In Bandung, crowds line up late night in seedy alleyways to snack on potato fritters made soft from frying in hot oil.
For a fluffier version filled with Balinese spices try Le Semenyak (Pacific Place, level 5; +62 (0)21 5140 0610).
25. Martabak
You can make it without lard. But why bother?
Think of a spongy, thick crepe made with 10 times the lard and you’ll be somewhat close to imaging martabak.
The sweet version looks more like a pancake filled with gooey chocolate, peanuts or cheese, while the savory one is made from crispy pulled pastry like filo that is flattened in a wok as egg and minced meats are rapidly folded in.
Served with pickled cucumber and a sweet and sour vinegar.
Martabak Ayah; Jl TWK Mohd Daudsyah, Banda Aceh.
26. Sayur asem
From West Java with love -- as well as melinjo, bilimbi and chayote.
This clear, refreshing soup derived from tamarind pairs well with fried food since it’s stocked with vegetables and some of Indonesia’s most interesting ingredients: melinjo, bilimbi, chayote.
A very close relative called sayur lodeh is made with coconut milk and has a sweeter flavor.
Counterintuitively, this West Javanese dish is great at Warung Surabaya (Jl. DR. Abdul Rachman Saleh).
27. Sop buntut
A little bit of Australia sometimes finds its way into the bowl.
Revitalized by the chef at Hotel Borabodor in 1973 after a food and beverage staffer saw a government minister eating a bowl on the street, oxtail soup is loved by Indonesians from all classes.
The high-end version -- now the domain of Indonesia’s diplomatic corps -- uses imported Australian beef, 7,000 kilograms a month to be precise, and comes complete with steamed rice, pickles, lime and sambal.
For a less pretentious outlet, try Sop Buntut Bogor Café (Pacific Place Mall, level 5; +62 (0)21 5797 3238).
28. Ketoprak
Not theatrical, but dramatic nonetheless.
Not to be confused with the theatrical drama of the same name that re-enacts Javanese legends, this Ketoprak is made from vermicelli, tofu, packed rice cake and bean sprouts.
It rounds out the quintet of pestle-and-mortar-based dishes that include gado-gado and pecel, and is a simple street dish that tastes mostly of peanuts and spice but is chockfull of carbohydrates.
Any street vendor will do, but to stave off a funny tummy try Gado-Gado Kartika (Jl. Pinang Emas III; +62 (0)21 750 8846).
29. Balado terong
If it's red, you'll eat it. Think about it.
The color of this dish is enough to set taste buds going.
Nothing more than grilled purple eggplant topped with heaps of chili sauce made from dried shrimp paste (
balacan), it calls for a substantial portion of rice to even out the fire-engine flavor.
Enjoy the low-light ambiance at Seribu Rasa (Jl. Haji Agus Salim 128; +62 (0)21 392 8892), which delights in the use of balacan.
30. Lontong sayur
A crunchy start to the day.
Boiled for hours in coconut leaf casings,
the glutinous packed rice cake known as lontong is one of the best vehicles for pairing with thick peanut sauces and curries.
It serves as the base for this savory morning favorite, a coconut-milk curry made with young papaya, soy-braised tofu and hard-boiled eggs.
Crushed up krupuk add a little crunch to get you going.
Pak Sule draws a crowd to his street stand outside the ANZ building on Jl. Gatot Subroto before 10 a.m.
31. Rendang
Don't try this at home.
Perhaps Padang’s most famed curry, rendang is not an everyday food since it takes time and skill to make.
Its secret is in the gravy, which wraps around the beef for hours until, ideally, it’s splendidly tender.
A dried version, which can be kept for months (like jerky) is reserved for honored guests and important celebrations.
If you stop by Sederhana (Jl. Gandaria Tengah III No. 23; +62 (0)21 725 0172) for Padang, you can’t let this plate pass you by.
32. Tahu gerjrot
Reason number 467 to love tofu.
These clouds of golden, fried tofu look like little packages behind the windows of the boxes from which they are sold.
Tofu is a poor man’s snack, but that also makes it prevalent. Keep an eye out for the vendors who cart stacks of the fluffy fried tofu
from devices slung across their shoulders.
For a version steeped in sweet soy sauce and chili and served in a pestle and mortar, head to Menteng Plaza (Jl. HOS Cokrominoto).
33. Sop kambing
Pairs well with Norway.
If Indonesia ever got cold enough to necessitate a winter stew sop kambing would be even more popular.
A robust soup with a yellow broth full of celery, tomato, and great chunks of goat meat, this dish could make the Campbell’s soup man quiver. Be warned if you have high blood pressure since the dish will heat you up.
Ginger, lime leaf, candlenut and spring onion give it peppery smell that adds to its refreshingly earthy flavor.
Try Sop Kaki Kambing (Jl. Kendal) nestled in among a stretch of roadside eateries.
34. Siomay
For bicycle vendors, it's bread and butter.
Think of it as Indonesia’s version of dim sum -- traditional steamed fish dumplings known in China as shaomai.
A complete portion comes with a steamed potato, cabbage, egg, and bitter gourd, and is served with a boiled peanut sauce similar to gado-gado.
Perhaps Indonesia’s most ubiquitous traveling street food, the best way to dine on siomay is from a bicycle vendor, who carts his large steamer around on the back of his bike.
For the less health-inclined, an alternative to siomay is batagor, which is fried instead of steamed.
Siomay Pak Lili at Jl. Geger Kalong Girang, Bandung.
35. Ikan bakar
The best things in life are the simplest.
Grilled fish, plain and simple. But in a country with more than 17,000 islands, fish is bound to feature prominently.
While squid and prawns have a place in Indonesian cuisine, ikan bakar gets a far better showing for a fleshy texture that is great for dipping.
It is usually marinated in the typical trove of spices and served with a soy and chili-based sauce.
Try the gurame, a Sundanese star, at Ikan Bakar Cianjur (Jl. Cipete Raya No. 35; +62 (0)21 7590 0222).
36. Daun papaya
The all-purpose papaya comes through again.
Papaya is one of the fastest growing trees in Southeast Asia, and its bitter leaves are great for sautéing.
This dish is common in Manado, but regional variations have made it popular among the leaf-and-seed-eating crowd, a big bunch in Indonesia.
For a crisp version head to Bumbu Desa (Jl. Suryo No. 38; +62 (0)21 720 1244).
37. Otak-otak
So good, you'll customize your forks for it.
Another famed fish cake from Palembang, otak-otak has a more charming appearance, since it’s wrapped in banana leaves before being grilled over charcoal.
Indigenous Sumatrans eat it with red chili mixed with fermented soy sauce, but in Jakarta it is served with Java’s ubiquitous peanut sauce.
Pick a few small parcels up from any bicycle vendor, or dine in style at Harum Manis (Jl. Mas Mansyur No. 26; +62 (0)21 5794 1727), where the delicate fish flavor goes down well with Indonesian-styled ice cream.
38. Bebek goreng
Tricky to prepare. Easy to eat.
Ducks are common companions to rice fields around Indonesia, but they can be difficult to prepare for consumption.
Too often fried duck comes as a mass of tiny bones and overly fried oily meat. That doesn’t make it any less worthy of the top 40, though.
At the dramatic Dapur Babah (
Jl. Veteran no. 18-19, Jakarta; +62 (0)21 385 5653), duck comes marinated in galangal sauce and topped with shredded ginger.
For a less fussy version, check out Bebek Bengil (Jl. Hanoman, Bali; +62 (0)361 975 489).
39. Gorengan
Fry it, and they will come.
Literally “fried foods,”
gorengan are the most prolific snacks in all of Indonesia.
Street carts typically offer crispy golden nuggets of tempe, cassava and tofu, as well as fried bananas, sweet potatoes, vegetables fritters made from shredded carrot, cabbage and bean sprouts and fermented soybean cakes.
Stop by any kaki lima and walk away with an oil-stained news-wrapping topped with a handful of green chili.
40. Indomie
The reason they invented "to go."
If you had to name one food Indonesians couldn’t live without, it would have to be one that is easy to transport, since they’re often on the go.
That makes instant-noodle Indomie beloved by all. Sold at grocery stores, village mom and pop shops and even from the basket of bicycles, Indomie calls for nothing more than hot water and a packet of chemical-induced flavoring before it’s ready to fill one’s tummy.
Found: everywhere. Taste: unforgettable.
